The Ultimate AR-15 Troubleshooting Guide for Gun Owners Who Want Their Rifle to Run Right Every Time

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Jason Schaller

AR-15 Troubleshooting – Fix Your Rifle Fast

This AR-15 Troubleshooting Guide is built for one purpose: to get your rifle running right. If your AR-15 won’t feed, fire, eject, or cycle, this guide has the fix.

Read moreHow to Field Strip an AR 15 or AR 10 – Step-by-Step Breakdown

Light primer strikes? Short-stroking? Double feeds? You’re not alone. These are the most common issues DIY gunsmiths and everyday shooters face. Every problem is here—with real solutions.

Whether you call it AR15, AR-15, or AR 15, this guide breaks down every malfunction that can mess up your day. No fluff. No theory. Just tested fixes and pro tips that work in the real world.

⚠️ Safety Disclaimer

This AR-15 Troubleshooting Guide is for informational use only. Firearms are dangerous if mishandled or improperly maintained.

• Always follow safety rules.
• Always follow your manufacturer’s instructions.
• Always verify your rifle is unloaded before doing anything.

This guide is not a replacement for certified armorer training or professional help. If you’re unsure—ask someone qualified.

Use at your own risk. You are responsible for your safety, your rifle, and your choices. Be smart. Be safe. Don’t cut corners.

TL;DR – Fix Your AR-15 Fast

• Feeding issues? Swap in a fresh mag and brass-cased ammo. Don’t chase ghosts—most AR-15 Troubleshooting starts with the mag.
• Light primer strikes? Flip the rifle open and check hammer spring legs—they should point forward. Backward spring = soft hits.
• Brass hitting your face? Ejector’s weak or extractor’s mistimed. Add an O-ring or upgrade the spring to fix erratic ejection.
• Short-stroking? You’re under-gassed. Run brass ammo, check your gas block, and test with a lighter buffer.
• Double feeds? Your chamber’s filthy or extractor’s weak. Clean it deep and try known-good mags.
• Sticky trigger or no reset? Replace worn springs and inspect disconnector alignment. Short-stroking also kills trigger travel.
• Inconsistent cycling? Run a Sharpie test on the bolt carrier. Where the ink rubs, the drag lives. Tune your buffer to match.

Quick AR-15 Fix Tables

Feeding Problems

Firing Problems

Ejection & Extraction Problems

Cycling Problems

Magazine Issues

Trigger Group Problems

Gas System Problems

Bolt Carrier Group Issues

Miscellaneous Malfunctions

Common Tools for AR-15 Troubleshooting

Before you start diagnosing or fixing anything, here are the tools that make AR-15 troubleshooting easier, faster, and more effective. These are tools I actually use—and yeah, some of the links may be affiliate links. If you grab one through them, it helps support the guide (and keeps the lights on).

Recommended Punches for AR-15 Work

AR-15 Diagnostic & Maintenance Tools

Want a shortcut? Start with an armorer’s wrench, punch set, torque wrench, and a bench block. That covers 90% of the fixes in this guide.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Feeding Problems

Feeding problems are some of the most frustrating AR-15 malfunctions. They stop your rifle before it even gets into the fight. If your AR won’t strip a round, chamber it, or feed smoothly—this is where to start. Most issues come from magazines, ammo, or a mistuned gas system. Let’s break them down.

Why Do Rounds Jam on the Feed Ramp?

Symptoms:
You hit the bolt release—and the round slams halfway up the ramp and stops cold. It’s stuck like it lost all momentum and forgot where it was going.

What’s Happening?

• The feed ramp is dirty or carbon-caked
• A weak mag spring messes with feed angle
• Hollow points catch on rough chamber edges
• Feed angle is off from a worn mag or poor mag fit

Fix:
✔ Clean and polish the feed ramp with a chamber brush and solvent
✔ Use FMJ ammo to test feeding reliability
✔ Swap in a known-good mag with strong spring tension
✔ Check the chamber for tool marks or burrs

📌 Pro Tip: If FMJ feeds fine but HP jams, it’s a geometry problem. The ramp or chamber needs work.

Why Do My Rounds Nosedive Instead of Feeding?

Symptoms:
You load a mag, rack the charging handle, and the round dives like it’s trying to escape into the mag body instead of chambering. Looks like it’s nose-down and giving up.

What’s Happening?

• Weak or worn mag spring causes tilt
• The follower drags or binds inside the mag
• Feed lips are too wide and misalign the round
• Flat-nose ammo struggles to ride up the ramp

Fix:
✔ Replace the mag spring and follower
✔ Measure feed lips—they should be ~0.347″–0.353″
✔ Use FMJ or proven hollow points like Gold Dot
✔ Tap-test the mag to see if rounds tilt or stick

📌 Pro Tip: Press down on a loaded mag. If the round tilts, your spring or follower is shot.

Why Won’t My Bolt Pick Up a Round?

Symptoms:
You drop the bolt expecting it to chamber a round—and all you hear is a hollow click. You check the mag and the round’s just sitting there, untouched.

What’s Happening?

• Short-stroking prevents full cycling
• The top round sits too low in the mag
• Steel-case or cheap ammo binds under pressure

Fix:
✔ Check for gas leaks or block misalignment
✔ Verify buffer weight and spring tension
✔ Use brass ammo and a fresh mag to troubleshoot

📌 Pro Tip: Weak extraction and weak feeding usually means short-stroke. Check the gas and buffer setup.

Why Does My Bolt Skip Over the Top Round?

Symptoms:
You close the bolt, but it slams home on an empty chamber. The mag’s still loaded, and the top round hasn’t even moved. It’s like the bolt ghosted it.

What’s Happening?

• The mag sits too low in the well
• Feed lips are bent or spread
• The mag catch is worn or misaligned

Fix:
✔ Try other mags—ditch the ones that fail
✔ Check how mags fit in your lower receiver
✔ Inspect the mag catch for tension and fit

📌 Pro Tip: If every mag skips the round, your lower is out of spec. If just one fails—toss it.

Feeding issues are usually caused by mags or ammo. Start there. Don’t tear into your rifle until you’ve tried a new mag and decent lube.

Feeding Problem FAQs

Why does my AR-15 keep jamming rounds on the feed ramp?
Most likely: a dirty ramp, weak mag spring, or hollow points dragging. Clean it, run FMJ, and swap mags.

Why are my rounds nose-diving in the magazine?
You’ve got a weak spring or sticky follower. Replace both. Check feed lip spacing too.

Why won’t my AR-15 pick up the top round?
It’s probably short-stroking. Check your gas system and buffer. Use brass ammo in a good mag.

Why does the bolt skip over the round without feeding it?
The mag’s too low or the lips are bent. Try a different mag. Check your mag catch for fit and wear.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Firing Problems

When you pull the trigger and nothing happens—or something weird happens—you’ve got a firing issue. These issues feel like total failure—but most are easy to diagnose. Most of the time, it’s dirty parts, weak springs, or a bolt that didn’t fully cycle.

Why Does My AR Click But Not Fire?

Symptoms:
You pull the trigger expecting a boom—and get a lonely click. The round’s in the chamber. You eject it, and the primer looks barely touched—or not touched at all.

What’s Happening?

• The hammer drops but doesn’t hit hard enough to ignite the primer
• The firing pin channel is gunked up with carbon or oil
• You’ve got bad ammo with hard primers
• The trigger reset didn’t happen due to short-stroke or worn springs

Fix:
✔ Clean the bolt carrier, especially the firing pin and channel
✔ Try different ammo with softer primers
✔ Check hammer spring orientation and strength
✔ Verify trigger reset by manually cycling and listening for the click

📌 Pro Tip: If it clicks but doesn’t go bang—check the bolt. It might not be fully in battery.

Why Am I Getting Light Primer Strikes?

Symptoms:
You pull the trigger, get a soft click, and eject the round. The primer’s dented—but just barely. It’s like your AR gave it a gentle poke instead of a proper punch.

What’s Happening?

• Weak or reversed hammer spring
• Excess carbon slowing the firing pin
• Out-of-spec firing pin length or worn tip
• Light strike from aftermarket trigger not tuned for mil-spec ammo

Fix:
✔ Replace or reorient the hammer spring (legs should face forward, not downward)
✔ Deep clean the bolt carrier and firing pin channel
✔ Measure firing pin protrusion (should be 0.028″–0.036″)
✔ Try factory ammo instead of reloads

📌 Pro Tip: Aftermarket triggers love match primers. Military ammo like XM193 needs a solid strike.

Why Is There No Primer Strike at All?

Symptoms:
You squeeze the trigger and… nothing. No click, no bang. You rack it and eject a live round with a perfectly clean primer—like the hammer stayed home.

What’s Happening?

• Firing pin isn’t moving forward
• Hammer isn’t dropping
• Disconnector or trigger isn’t resetting
• The safety could be half-engaged

Fix:
✔ Check the hammer manually by cocking and dry-firing
✔ Inspect the trigger group for spring binding or misalignment
✔ Make sure the firing pin moves freely in the BCG
✔ Cycle the safety selector fully—don’t leave it in limbo

📌 Pro Tip: If there’s zero mark on the primer, don’t blame the ammo. Start with the trigger group and work forward.

Firing problems feel like worst-case scenarios—but they’re usually simple. Start with the ammo and bolt. Then dig into the trigger group. One small fix often brings your rifle back to life.

Firing Problem FAQs

Why does my AR click but not fire?
It’s usually a dirty bolt carrier, a weak hammer spring, or the bolt not fully in battery. Clean the firing pin channel and check spring tension.

Why am I getting light primer strikes?
Your hammer spring might be installed backward, or it’s just worn out. Also check for carbon buildup slowing the firing pin.

Why is there no primer strike at all?
The hammer isn’t dropping, or the firing pin is stuck. Check the trigger group, firing pin movement, and safety position.

Do I need new ammo if my AR won’t fire?
Try known-good brass ammo first. If that fixes it, your original rounds were likely the problem—especially if they had hard primers or were out-of-spec reloads.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Ejection & Extraction Problems

Ejection and extraction problems kill your rifle’s rhythm fast. One minute you’re sending rounds downrange, the next—you’re slapping the charging handle like it owes you money. If brass is sticking, flying at your face, or refusing to eject—this is where to start.

Why Does My AR-15 Stovepipe?

Symptoms:
You fire a shot. The casing stands straight up in the ejection port—like it’s saluting. The bolt locks up partway. You’re stuck doing a clearance drill.

What’s Happening?

• The bolt short-cycles and doesn’t complete the stroke
• Weak gas system or underpowered ammo is slowing the action
• Dirty or worn extractor doesn’t hold onto the case long enough
• Recoil spring is too heavy, or the buffer is dragging

Fix:
✔ Use brass ammo and test for full cycling
✔ Clean the extractor claw and spring assembly
✔ Check buffer weight and gas block alignment
✔ Swap recoil spring if it’s overdue for replacement

📌 Pro Tip: If stovepipes disappear with hotter ammo or a better grip, it’s not the gun—it’s timing.

Why Is Brass Hitting Me in the Face?

Symptoms:
You squeeze the trigger and get hit with hot brass. Not exactly the range experience you signed up for.

What’s Happening?

• The ejector angle is off or the spring is weak
• Extractor tension is inconsistent, releasing too early or too late
• Worn gas rings or BCG friction messes with timing

Fix:
✔ Inspect ejector spring and extractor claw
✔ Replace the ejector if it’s rounded or worn
✔ Tune extractor tension using an O-ring or upgraded spring
✔ Check bolt carrier glide and gas ring condition

📌 Pro Tip: Slow-mo video tells the truth. If brass hits your face, your ejector or timing is trash.

Why Does My AR Double Feed?

Symptoms:
You get a dead trigger and rip the mag. Two rounds are jammed in. One behind the other. It’s a nightmare to clear.

What’s Happening?

• The empty case wasn’t extracted fully
• A fresh round tried to load behind it
• Could be a broken or weak extractor, dirty chamber, or timing issue

Fix:
✔ Replace the extractor or spring if it’s weak
✔ Clean the chamber thoroughly
✔ Test with different mags—bad timing can come from mag drag
✔ Inspect bolt face and claw engagement

📌 Pro Tip: Drop a spent case in the chamber. If it sticks, clean it. If it still sticks, polish it.

Why Won’t My Case Extract?

Symptoms:
You pull the trigger, and the bolt tries to cycle—but the empty case stays put. You’re stuck pounding it out with a rod.

What’s Happening?

• Carbon or lacquer buildup glued the case in place
• Weak extractor can’t grip the rim hard enough
• Over-gassed setups yank too hard and shear rims
• Undersized or rough chamber binds the case

Fix:
✔ Deep clean the chamber—especially after steel case ammo
✔ Upgrade the extractor spring or install a tension O-ring
✔ Inspect chamber dimensions and polish if needed
✔ Check gas port size and buffer setup for violent extraction

📌 Pro Tip: If steel cases always stick but brass doesn’t, your chamber’s too rough—or your extractor isn’t up to the task.

Ejection & Extraction FAQs

Why is my AR-15 stovepiping every few rounds?
You’re likely under-gassed or running weak ammo. Could also be a dirty extractor or worn spring. Clean it, run brass ammo, and check your gas setup.

Why does my AR throw brass at my face?
Ejector angle or extractor tension is off. Check the ejector spring and swap in a stronger extractor spring or O-ring.

Why does my rifle double feed all the time?
It’s not extracting the old round before feeding the new one. Clean the chamber, replace the extractor if worn, and check for short-stroking.

Why won’t my case extract at all?
Could be carbon buildup, a weak extractor, or a rough chamber. Clean it deep, polish if needed, and check your gas system for overpressure.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Cycling Problems

When your AR-15 starts acting sluggish or refuses to cycle right, you know something’s off. Cycling issues can feel random—but they’re not. This section breaks down why your rifle won’t return to battery, short-strokes, or stops mid-action, and how to fix it before it throws off your entire shooting day.

Why Won’t My AR-15 Go Into Battery?

Symptoms:
You fire—or manually cycle the bolt—and it stops just shy of locking up. The bolt’s almost home, but not quite. It feels like something’s dragging.

What’s Happening?

• Chamber is dirty or has carbon buildup
• Ammo is too long or out-of-spec
• Recoil spring is worn or buffer is binding
• Bolt carrier is dragging on the rails

Fix:
✔ Clean the chamber with a chamber brush and solvent
✔ Check OAL of ammo (especially reloads)
✔ Replace worn recoil spring or inspect buffer tube for debris
✔ Run a Sharpie test on the carrier to find drag spots

📌 Pro Tip: If you see Sharpie marks rubbing off unevenly, your carrier is binding—polish or clean the contact points.

Why Is My AR-15 Short-Stroking?

Symptoms:
The rifle fires, ejects the case, but doesn’t chamber the next round—or it fails to lock the bolt back on empty.

What’s Happening?

• Under-gassed system or misaligned gas block
• Heavy buffer or recoil spring is slowing the action
• Weak or low-pressure ammo (especially steel case)
• Gas key isn’t properly staked or sealed

Fix:
✔ Inspect gas block alignment and gas tube for leaks
✔ Try a lighter buffer or test with brass ammo
✔ Check gas key screws and staking for proper seal
✔ Swap in a known-good BCG to isolate the issue

📌 Pro Tip: If it cycles fine with brass but not steel, you’re under-gassed. Tweak the buffer or gas system.

Why Does My AR-15 Feel Sluggish?

Symptoms:
Everything works—but it just feels slow. The bolt moves like it’s dragging. Follow-up shots are delayed. It’s not snappy.

What’s Happening?

• Dry or over-lubed bolt carrier
• Dirty buffer tube or weak spring tension
• Grit or carbon buildup on the rails
• Parts aren’t breaking in properly or are mismatched

Fix:
✔ Clean and properly lube the BCG and rails
✔ Inspect buffer tube and spring for grime or drag
✔ Use a high-quality CLP or light oil
✔ Cycle the action by hand to identify rough spots

📌 Pro Tip: Don’t overlube—too much oil attracts carbon and slows everything down.

Cycling problems don’t always shut down your AR—but they make it unpredictable. Diagnose quickly, and fix the resistance before it becomes a failure.

Cycling Problem FAQs

Why won’t my AR go fully into battery?
Most of the time it’s a dirty chamber, bad ammo, or a weak recoil spring. Clean it, check OAL, and inspect for drag.

Why does my AR short-stroke with steel case ammo?
You’re under-gassed. Steel ammo is weaker. Tune your buffer, lighten your spring, or open your gas system.

Why does my rifle feel sluggish even though it runs?
Your bolt’s dragging. Could be grime in the buffer tube, weak spring tension, or too much lube collecting carbon.

What’s a quick way to check for cycling drag?
Color your bolt carrier with a Sharpie. Cycle it by hand. Any spots that rub off show where it’s dragging.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Magazine Issues

A bad magazine turns a good rifle into a paperweight. Feeding failures, bolt lock issues, and random malfunctions usually trace back to the mag. Don’t overlook it.

Why Does One Mag Cause All the Problems?

Symptoms:
Everything works—until you use that one mag. Suddenly, rounds nose-dive, fail to feed, or double feed every few shots.

What’s Happening?

• Weak or worn-out mag spring
• Follower binding inside the mag body
• Feed lips are out of spec or damaged
• Mag body is warped or cracked

Fix:
✔ Label your mags—bad ones always reveal themselves
✔ Replace mag internals or trash the mag entirely
✔ Check feed lip width (~0.347″–0.353″ for USGI mags)
✔ Compare performance with a known-good mag

📌 Pro Tip: If one mag gives you drama, stop trying to fix it. It’s cheaper to replace than chase reliability issues.

Why Won’t My Mag Lock In or Stay Put?

Symptoms:
You insert a mag. It won’t lock. Or it locks—then drops out after a few shots. It feels loose or doesn’t seat correctly.

What’s Happening?

• Mag catch is worn, loose, or misaligned
• Magazine body is swollen from heat or overloading
• Receiver dimensions are slightly off
• Polymer mags may not match certain lowers

Fix:
✔ Test different mags—especially if using polymer or aftermarket brands
✔ Inspect mag catch and spring tension
✔ Try inserting with bolt locked open (more room in the well)
✔ Don’t leave loaded mags baking in a hot car

📌 Pro Tip: If your mag swells from heat, rotate your carry mags. Heat + time = mag distortion.

Why Do My Rounds Nose-Dive Inside the Mag?

Symptoms:
Rounds tilt in the mag after a few shots. Feeding goes downhill from there. You start getting feed ramp jams and half-chambered rounds.

What’s Happening?

• Weak mag spring can’t hold the next round in position
• Follower tilts or binds
• Feed lips are spreading under load

Fix:
✔ Replace the spring and follower
✔ Run a tap test—if rounds tilt or stick, toss it
✔ Avoid lubing mags—it traps grit and slows the follower
✔ Upgrade to an anti-tilt follower

📌 Pro Tip: Use your thumb to press on the loaded rounds. If they tilt or drag—your follower’s shot.

Magazine Problem FAQs

Why does one of my mags always cause failures?
It’s probably got a weak spring, bad follower, or out-of-spec feed lips. Label it, test it, or toss it.

Why won’t my mag stay locked in?
It might be the mag catch, a swollen mag, or polymers that don’t fit your lower well. Check fitment and spring tension.

Why are my rounds tilting in the mag?
Your spring’s weak or the follower is dragging. Replace both and stop lubing your mags—they’re not supposed to be slippery.

Do I need to replace mags regularly?
If they get dropped, warped, or cause issues—yes. Mags are consumables. Don’t get sentimental.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Trigger Problems

Trigger issues make your rifle feel unreliable. Maybe it won’t reset. Maybe it’s gritty. Maybe it pulls like a boat anchor. Something’s off. This section breaks down why it happens—and how to fix it fast.

Why Won’t My Trigger Reset?

Symptoms:
You fire a shot. But when you release the trigger—nothing. No click. No follow-up shot. You’re dead in the water.

What’s Happening?

• Trigger return spring is broken or out of position
• Disconnector or hammer is binding
• Short-stroking prevents full reset
• Aftermarket trigger isn’t tuned for your setup

Fix:
✔ Replace the trigger return spring
✔ Clean and inspect disconnector, trigger, and hammer for burrs
✔ Confirm the BCG cycles fully—test with brass ammo
✔ Swap to a standard trigger to isolate the problem

📌 Pro Tip: Hold the trigger down, rack the bolt, then release slow. If it doesn’t reset—you’ve found the issue.

Why Is My Trigger Pull Inconsistent?

Symptoms:
Some shots break clean. Others feel gritty or off. You start second-guessing every pull.

What’s Happening?

• Grit or carbon buildup in the fire control group
• Weak or misaligned disconnector spring
• Uneven wear on trigger and hammer surfaces
• Mixing parts from different brands causes geometry issues

Fix:
✔ Strip and clean the lower with solvent and brush
✔ Check disconnector spring placement and tension
✔ Don’t stack mods—test one change at a time
✔ Revert to OEM to verify it’s not the parts mix

📌 Pro Tip: If it changes mid-mag, you’ve got loose parts or wear. Consistency matters.

Why Is My AR-15 Trigger Pull Way Too Heavy?

Symptoms:
You pull and pull—and then it breaks. It’s like dragging a cinder block through gravel.

What’s Happening?

• Heavy hammer spring installed for hard primers (common in mil-surplus builds)
• Trigger sear angle is too steep or dragging on the hammer
• Debris or corrosion in the trigger pocket
• Selector spring and detent causing friction against trigger bar

Fix:
✔ Swap in a standard mil-spec hammer spring
✔ Lightly polish the sear interface—don’t reshape it
✔ Pull the trigger group and flush the pocket clean
✔ Check selector detent tension—adjust if over-tightened

📌 Pro Tip: If your trigger feels fine when dry—but sucks under live fire—heat or pressure is exposing weak links in your lower.

Trigger Problem FAQs

Why won’t my AR-15 trigger reset after a shot?
It’s likely a broken return spring, a dragging disconnector, or short-stroking. Confirm full BCG travel and inspect your springs.

Why does my trigger feel different every few shots?
Grit, carbon buildup, or mismatched parts are usually the problem. Clean it. Test one part at a time.

Why is my trigger pull so heavy on a new build?
You may have a heavy hammer spring installed. Swap in a mil-spec spring and check for drag on sear surfaces or in the trigger pocket.

Can my selector detent cause trigger issues?
Yes. If the selector spring is over-tensioned or binding, it can rub the trigger bar. Check fit and detent pressure.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Gas System Problems

When your AR-15 is under-gassed, over-gassed, or mistimed, the whole cycle falls apart. Feeding, ejection, and lockback all take a hit. If it runs great one mag and chokes the next, check your gas system first.

Why Is My AR-15 Under-Gassed?

Symptoms:
You pull the trigger, it fires—but nothing else happens. No ejection, no new round, no lockback. It’s like your rifle gave up halfway through the job.

What’s Happening?

• Gas block is misaligned or leaking
• Gas port is too small
• Gas tube is kinked, clogged, or off-center
• Suppressor or buffer setup is mismatched

Fix:
✔ Check for carbon tracking—if it’s not centered, the block is off
✔ Clean or replace the gas tube
✔ Open the gas port (if qualified) or install an adjustable block
✔ Run a lighter buffer or spring to compensate

📌 Pro Tip: Short-stroking? Look at the gas block and tube first—then the buffer. Most of the time, it’s alignment.

Why Is My AR-15 Over-Gassed?

Symptoms:
Your rifle bucks harder than usual. Brass launches forward like a slingshot. Parts start wearing faster, and the whole gun feels like it’s being overworked.

What’s Happening?

• Large gas port or aggressive ammo
• Suppressor is overdriving the system
• No buffer tuning
• Carrier is outrunning the mag

Fix:
✔ Install an adjustable gas block or heavier buffer
✔ Use a full-auto carrier or heavier BCG
✔ Tune the recoil spring to slow down the cycle
✔ Add a suppressor-specific buffer if running suppressed

📌 Pro Tip: Over-gassed rifles eat parts. Ejecting forward = too much gas. Dial it back before your extractor gets chewed up.

Why Is My AR-15 Cycling Inconsistently?

Symptoms:
One mag runs fine. Next mag, it’s choking, short-stroking, or failing to lock back. Feels like the rifle’s got mood swings.

What’s Happening?

• Gas block is misaligned
• Gas tube is clogged or off-center
• Leaks around the gas port

Fix:
✔ Realign the gas block—carbon ring around port means it’s leaking
✔ Remove and clean the gas tube
✔ Replace worn gas rings if the carrier feels loose

📌 Pro Tip: Irregular cycling usually means misalignment or blockage. Fix the path first.

Why Is My Gas Key Leaking?

Symptoms:
You’re running good ammo, but the rifle acts weak. Brass dribbles out, bolt cycles slow, and reliability drops for no obvious reason.

What’s Happening?

• Gas key screws are loose or unstaked
• Carbon leaking from the base of the gas key
• Carrier isn’t sealing properly

Fix:
✔ Inspect for carbon residue around the gas key
✔ Stake or re-tighten screws using proper torque
✔ Replace carrier if sealing surface is worn

📌 Pro Tip: Carbon on the key = gas leak. No seal, no pressure.

Why Does My Suppressed AR Cycle Weakly?

Symptoms:
Slap on a can and your rifle forgets how to cycle. It short-strokes, fails to feed, or chokes halfway through the mag.

What’s Happening?

• Over-buffered setup can’t keep up
• Gas block isn’t adjustable or tuned
• Suppressor backpressure changes timing

Fix:
✔ Use an adjustable gas block to tune the flow
✔ Try a lighter buffer and recoil spring
✔ Run suppressed-specific buffer system if needed

📌 Pro Tip: Every suppressor setup needs its own gas tune. There’s no one-size-fits-all.

Gas System FAQs

How do I know if my gas system is misaligned?
Check for a carbon ring at the gas port. That means your block isn’t centered. Fix the alignment before anything else.

What causes inconsistent cycling even with good ammo?
Misaligned blocks, clogged tubes, or loose gas rings can all cause it. Check the gas path and test your BCG fit.

Why does my suppressed AR short-stroke?
You’re probably over-buffered or under-gassed for the added backpressure. Tune your gas block and try a lighter buffer.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Bolt Carrier Group (BCG) Problems

The BCG causes a lot of mystery failures—but they’re easier to diagnose than most people think. Carrier dragging? Bolt locked up? Firing pin snapped? This section shows why—and how to fix it fast.

Why Is My Carrier Dragging?

Symptoms:
Feels like you’re racking the bolt through mud. You pull the charging handle, and the carrier grinds, hesitates, or drags all the way back.

What’s Happening?

• Upper and lower aren’t aligning correctly
• Receiver rails are rough or out of spec
• Carbon buildup or finish drag is slowing the carrier

Fix:
✔ Polish the inside rails of your upper receiver
✔ Run a Sharpie test to see where it’s dragging
✔ Check upper and lower fit—misalignment kills smooth cycling

📌 Pro Tip: Carrier drag isn’t always lube-related. Sometimes the finish or rail fit needs tuning.

Why Won’t My Bolt Unlock?

Symptoms:
You squeeze the trigger, feel recoil—and then nothing. The bolt refuses to move like it’s welded to the chamber. It takes force to get it free.

What’s Happening?

• Cam pin is binding inside the carrier
• Bolt lugs are deformed or peened from hard use
• Extreme carbon or improper headspace causes lockup

Fix:
✔ Remove the BCG and check cam pin for wear or drag
✔ Inspect bolt lugs for rounding, cracks, or deformation
✔ Clean the lug recesses in the barrel extension

📌 Pro Tip: A cracked bolt lug will lock your gun up and stop extraction cold. Don’t ignore resistance.

Why Did My Firing Pin Break?

Symptoms:
You pull the trigger. Click—maybe. Or nothing at all. You strip the bolt. The pin’s either snapped or chipped to hell.

What’s Happening?

• Firing pin has worn from hard use or poor material
• Over-hard primers cause fracture
• Aftermarket pins or mismatched cups are failing under pressure

Fix:
✔ Replace the firing pin with a mil-spec or quality part
✔ Inspect ammo—especially steel case or hard primer imports
✔ Never mix cheap parts in critical areas like the firing system

📌 Pro Tip: Don’t cheap out on pins. One weak link in the BCG kills reliability.

Bolt Carrier Group FAQs

Why doesn’t my bolt lock back after the last round?
Could be under-gassing, a worn mag follower, or a sluggish bolt catch. It’s not always the mag—check your gas and buffer setup.

Why is the carrier hard to rack manually?
Drag from tight upper rails or misalignment can slow it down. Run a Sharpie test or check for wear marks.

What causes a firing pin to break in an AR-15?
Usually cheap parts, worn pins, or hard primers. Always run quality internals in critical systems.

Can the cam pin really lock up the bolt?
Yes. If it binds, wears unevenly, or isn’t installed right, it can jam the bolt shut.

AR-15 Troubleshooting: Miscellaneous Malfunctions

These are the weird failures. They don’t fit neatly into a single system—but they still matter. A sticky safety. A drifting zero. Mid-match failures. They’ll wreck your day if you don’t know what’s going on. Let’s unpack the oddballs.

Why Won’t My Safety Engage?

Symptoms:
You try to click the safety on, but it won’t move—or feels gritty and stiff. Sometimes it won’t engage at all.

What’s Happening?

• Selector is out of spec or installed wrong
• Trigger or sear isn’t fully resetting
• Disconnector alignment is off just enough to bind

Fix:
✔ Inspect the selector, detent, and spring
✔ Watch the hammer/sear interaction during dry fire
✔ Check trigger group install for burrs or tight spots

📌 Pro Tip: If the hammer won’t fully reset, the safety won’t engage. Watch it carefully during function checks.

Why Does My Rifle Fire on SAFE?

Symptoms:
You flip the selector to SAFE, squeeze the trigger—and the rifle fires. Yes, really. It’s rare, but it’s real.

What’s Happening?

• Selector is worn or wasn’t fitted to your lower
• Fire control group is misaligned or stacked wrong
• Out-of-spec trigger parts are bypassing the selector block

Fix:
✔ Stop everything—this is dangerous
✔ Replace the safety selector with a quality part
✔ Double-check trigger group alignment and install

📌 Pro Tip: If your rifle fires on SAFE, do not shoot again until it’s fixed. This isn’t optional—it’s a serious failure.

Why Is My Charging Handle Sticking?

Symptoms:
You go to rack the handle and it binds halfway. Sometimes it grinds. Sometimes it takes way more effort than it should.

What’s Happening?

• Charging handle or rails are dragging
• Carrier finish is rough or uneven
• Optic mount or handguard pressure is pushing on the upper

Fix:
✔ Clean and lightly lube the charging handle and rails
✔ Inspect the BCG for finish wear or burrs
✔ Check for over-torqued optic mounts putting pressure on the upper

📌 Pro Tip: Remove your optic and try again. If it’s smooth—your mount is flexing the upper.

Why Is My Zero Shifting?

Symptoms:
One mag you’re dead-on. Next mag—your group drifts an inch or two. Your zero moves with no reason.

What’s Happening?

• Loose optic mount or base screws
• Barrel nut is under-torqued or walking loose
• Carrier tilt or upper shift under recoil

Fix:
✔ Torque and Loctite your optic mounts to spec
✔ Inspect barrel nut torque and gas block movement
✔ Check for upper receiver play or fit issues

📌 Pro Tip: If your groups shift during a string—something is moving. Lock down your mount first.

Why Does My Rifle Start Failing Mid-Session?

Symptoms:
Halfway through the day, your rifle falls apart. Feed failures. Weak cycling. Random jams.

What’s Happening?

• Carbon buildup in carrier or chamber
• Heat soak messing with tolerances
• Weak mag springs can’t keep up when hot

Fix:
✔ Clean the bolt, chamber, and upper rails thoroughly
✔ Check buffer spring length and condition
✔ Swap mags and test for spring fatigue

📌 Pro Tip: A hot rifle plus worn springs equals failure. Always rotate your mags and check your springs regularly.

Miscellaneous Malfunctions FAQs

Why won’t my safety click into place?
It’s usually a selector or disconnector issue. Check for burrs or tight fit in the fire control group.

Is it really possible for an AR to fire on SAFE?
Yes. It’s a critical failure. Replace the selector. Inspect the whole trigger group before firing again.

Why is my charging handle hard to pull?
It might be rail drag, a rough carrier finish—or even an optic mount pressing on the upper. Remove parts and test one at a time.

What causes my zero to drift randomly?
Loose optic mounts, barrel nuts, or shifting upper fit. If your group shifts mid-string, something’s moving.

Why does my rifle fail more as it heats up?
Heat expands parts and increases carbon buildup. Add worn springs and weak mags, and reliability drops fast.

Final Thoughts

An AR-15 that runs right is confidence in your hands. But when it chokes, you need answers—not guesswork.

This guide is here to help you fix real problems—at the range, in competition, or during cleaning. Chasing a ghost malfunction? Tuning for reliability? Now you’ve got the tools to handle it.

You don’t need to be a certified armorer. You just need to think clearly, test methodically, and keep your rifle clean, properly lubed, and in-spec.

Found a Fix We Missed? Comment below or email us with your go-to AR-15 troubleshooting tip. We update this guide with community-sourced fixes that work.

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Credit: Jason Schaller
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About the Author: Jason Schaller is a former FFL holder and founder of Eagle Eye Shooters Supply in Helena, MT, where he provided professional gunsmithing services and guided customers on all aspects of firearms ownership. Today, he teaches DIY gunsmithing at The Rogue Banshee and serves as a Chief Instructor at Freedom Crew University. With over a decade of hands-on professional experience with firearms and nearly 30 years in IT, Jason also holds top cybersecurity certifications including CISSP, CISA, and CRISC. When he’s not geeking out, he’s helping others build self-reliance, critical thinking, and firearms proficiency through real-world content.

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