
80% 1911 for under $400 build adventure
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Can You Still Build an 80% 1911 in 2025 for under $400?
Here’s What It Took Me Then—and What It Takes Now
There are two kinds of gun builds: the ones you enjoy, and the ones that make you question every life decision that brought you there.
This was the latter.
Back in 2020, I set out to build an 80% 1911 for under $400. It started out as a challenge—part budget experiment, part stubborn pride. I figured, “If I can finish an 80% AR blindfolded, how bad could a 1911 be?”
Spoiler: worse than I expected.
What followed was a long, drawn-out build that nearly destroyed a jig, shattered drill bits, and killed more of my confidence than I’d like to admit. But in the end, I finished it. And for $375.50 in parts, I had a working 1911 that actually ran.
Now, in 2025, I wanted to revisit that build and answer a simple question:
Is it still possible to build an 80% 1911 today—and if so, what’s it going to cost you?
If you’re thinking about taking on a 1911 project, let me show you what’s changed, what still works, and where things get expensive (fast). This isn’t a quick how-to. It’s a battle story with receipts—and the bruises to match.
The Original Build (A Mini Tragedy)
It all started with a blemished Tactical Machining steel frame that I grabbed for $87.95. I paired that with a Sarco parts kit that cost me about $265. Add in a little shipping and some misplaced optimism, and the total came out to $375.50.
The plan was to drill it out using my Matrix Precision jig and assemble the kit in a weekend. That plan didn’t survive first contact.
Frame Issues
The grip safety pin wouldn’t go through. Turns out the holes were mis-sized. One was in spec, the other was way too tight. I measured them with calipers—.1555″ on one side, .128″ on the other. Not good.
Tactical Machining and Right to Bear got back to me fast, and sent a replacement frame—which I appreciated. But I didn’t let the bad one go to waste (I tried fixing it myself—that horror story is for another time).
Slide Prep
The extractor was oversized. Nothing a file and sandpaper couldn’t fix.
The Jig Disaster
With the new frame in hand, I went back to drilling. Everything went fine until the sear pin hole. The bit broke mid-drill and lodged in the frame and jig. I broke two more trying to remove it. Eventually, I hammered the frame out, which gouged both the frame and my jig.
I rebuilt the jig with new parts from Matrix and tried again. More broken bits. More frustration. After testing cutting oil, speeds, feeds, and metallurgy, I realized I’d accidentally work-hardened the steel. That’s when I switched to a solid carbide bit—which finally cut clean.
Assembly Woes
The thumb safety needed fitting. So did the slide stop. And the mainspring housing. And the barrel link was too long, causing timing issues. The included magazine didn’t hold the slide back, and the grips were cheap plastic.
But I got it to run. Was it perfect? Not even close. But it worked.
Would That Build Even Be Possible in 2025 for under $400?
Short answer: No. Not even close.
Here’s what it would cost to build something similar today:Component 2020 Price 2025 Price Notes 80% Frame (Now Aluminum, 7075-T6) $87.95 $179.99 80-Lower.com 1911 Parts Kit (SIG Sauer, used) $264.95 $699.95 EveryGunPart.com Ejector N/A $14.99 Affiliate Ejector Pin N/A $4.99 Affiliate Plunger Tube N/A $12.99 Affiliate Shipping $22.60 ~$30.00 Estimated Total $375.50 ~$943.91
If you’re wondering where all the cheap surplus went, you’re not alone. Steel frames are rare. Kits are boutique-priced. And “budget builds” in 2025 start closer to $900 than $400.
What You’ll Run Into Now
- Steel is out, aluminum is standard
- Kits often don’t include ejectors, pins, or small parts
- Blem frames are nearly impossible to find
- Work-hardened mistakes cost more with modern frames
If you’re starting today, you’ll spend more—but you’ll also likely deal with fewer frame defects.
Is It Still Worth Doing?
That depends.
If you just want a 1911, buy one.
But if you want to understand what goes into building one—to feel the trigger you fit yourself, to know that slide cycles because of your work, not some factory robot’s—then yeah, it’s still worth it.
Just know what you’re signing up for.
FAQ
Is it legal to build an 80% 1911 in 2025?
Yes, federally. But several states now ban or restrict 80% firearms. Check local laws.
Do I need to buy the ejector and other parts separately?
Often, yes. Many kits don’t include:
What frame should I use now?
The bead-blasted aluminum frame from 80-Lower.com is the best bang for your buck right now.
What should I watch for during the build?
Work-hardening, poor-quality bits, undercut link timing, and out-of-spec mags are common issues.
Will I save money building one?
Not anymore. But you’ll gain experience you can’t buy off a shelf.
Stay tuned. I’m not done with this gun yet. There’s still a trigger job, maybe a refinish, and definitely more content coming.
Because once you build it, you never really stop improving it.
Learn more about the 1911
We have lots of content to fill your 1911 needs. Visit our 1911 Series 70 Field Strip Video, 1911 Series 70 Slide Disassembly and Reassembly , 1911 Series 70 Frame Disassembly Video, as well as, 1911 Series 70 Frame Reassembly Video to learn more about this firearm.
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Credit: Jason Schaller
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About the Author: Jason Schaller is a former FFL holder and founder of Eagle Eye Shooters Supply in Helena, MT, where he provided professional gunsmithing services and guided customers on all aspects of firearms ownership. Today, he teaches DIY gunsmithing at The Rogue Banshee and serves as a Chief Instructor at Freedom Crew University. With over a decade of hands-on professional experience with firearms and nearly 30 years in IT, Jason also holds top cybersecurity certifications including CISSP, CISA, and CRISC. When he’s not geeking out, he’s helping others build self-reliance, critical thinking, and firearms proficiency through real-world content.
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