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The Sig P365 is one of the most popular concealed carry pistols on the market—but what happens when it’s time to service the slide? Whether you’re doing a detail clean, replacing parts, or prepping it for Cerakote, this guide shows how to take apart and put back together the Sig P365 and P365 XL slides step-by-step. Learn how to do a Sig P365 slide disassembly and reassembly job.
While these slides look nearly identical, there are key differences when removing the striker assembly and slide caps. This walkthrough explains how to deal with those differences and avoid damaging anything along the way.
If you want to learn how to Disassemble and Reassemble the FCU? Check out the video here!
P365 and P365 XL slides come apart differently—watch the cap removal
You’ll need punches and an Allen wrench for most of this job
Use care when removing the striker assembly—it’s under spring tension
Rear sight plate only applies to XL models
The extractor roll pin is easy to damage—use the right size punch
Video index below follows every step in order
This section gives an overview of what the video covers: full disassembly and reassembly of the slide, differences between models, tool needs, and a heads-up about spring-loaded parts. (Timestamp: 00:00)
In the video, this starts around 00:28.
The XL version uses a tab system that needs to be pushed over and forward. It’s not the same as the standard P365, and if done wrong, you could damage the cap or lose control of the striker spring.
In the video, this starts around 01:15.
On the base P365, the cap is removed by pushing the rear tab straight forward. No need to push over like on the XL. This is a simpler setup, but still requires firm and even pressure.
In the video, this starts around 01:44.
With the cap removed, press the striker safety to allow the striker to slide out from the rear. Rotate the slide to release the striker safety and its spring. These parts are small—keep track of them.
In the video, this starts around 02:16.
Use a punch to brace the striker. Compress the striker spring with your fingers and carefully remove the two spring cups. Slide off the spring and inner sleeve.
Watch out: the striker spring is under tension and can shoot parts across the room.
In the video, this starts around 03:32.
Slide the spring and sleeve back onto the striker. Compress the spring again and reinstall the two spring cups. Make sure they seat fully into the groove.
In the video, this starts around 04:48.
Only the XL has this plate. Use a 5/64″ Allen wrench to remove the screws. The rear sight and plate will lift off together. Pay attention to how the plate tab fits into the slide slot—it needs to match during reassembly.
In the video, this starts around 05:36.
Drive out the extractor roll pin using a 5/64″ roll pin punch. Remove the spring and plug first, then lift out the extractor. Be careful not to scratch or mar the channel.
In the video, this starts around 06:46.
Drop the extractor spring and plug into place. Then press in the extractor itself and reinsert the roll pin. Drive the pin until it’s flush with the slide body.
In the video, this starts around 07:53.
Fit the tab of the sight plate into the slide, then reinsert the screws. Snug them down with a 5/64″ Allen key. Don’t overtighten.
In the video, this starts around 08:46.
Drop the striker safety spring and safety into the hole and rotate the slide if needed to settle it. Insert the striker through the rear channel until it clicks into place.
In the video, this starts around 09:21.
Compress the striker from the rear and press it into position. Confirm that it moves freely before proceeding.
In the video, this starts around 09:40.
Line up the XL slide cap and compress the striker fully. Push the slide cap forward while holding the tab over. Once it clears, release the tab and the cap will lock in place.
In the video, this starts around 10:23.
Compress the striker and push the slide cap straight on until it clicks. No sideways tab movement needed.
In the video, this starts around 11:23.
Take your time. These parts are small and spring-loaded. Losing a spring cup or roll pin is easier than most expect. Lay everything out in order, double-check alignment, and test the striker function before calling it good.
If you’re looking for a more detailed breakdown or first-shot impressions of these pistols, check out our full comparison here: https://trb.fyi/p365-vs-p365xl-first-shot-impressions/
Want to see the tools we used in this video? Visit: https://trb.fyi/p365-gunsmithing-tools-used-in-our-videos/
How is the P365 XL slide different from the standard model?
The XL has a different slide cap locking tab and includes a rear sight plate, while the base model does not.
What size punch do I need for the extractor pin?
Use a 5/64″ roll pin punch to avoid damaging the pin or the slide.
Can I reuse the striker spring cups?
Yes, unless they’re damaged. Check for wear or cracks before reinstalling.
Is this process the same on the P365X?
Mostly, yes. The P365X shares features with both the standard and XL models, so follow based on which slide style it has.
What tools do I need to do this at home?
You’ll need a bench block, 5/64″ Allen wrench, 5/64″ roll pin punch, small screwdriver, and safety glasses.
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Original Content by The Rogue Banshee / My Rogue Solutions LLC.
Credit: Jason Schaller
Email: jschaller@trb.fyi
About the Author: Jason Schaller is a former FFL holder and founder of Eagle Eye Shooters Supply in Helena, MT, where he provided professional gunsmithing services and guided customers on all aspects of firearms ownership. Today, he teaches DIY gunsmithing at The Rogue Banshee and serves as a Chief Instructor at Freedom Crew University. With over a decade of hands-on professional experience with firearms and nearly 30 years in IT, Jason also holds top cybersecurity certifications including CISSP, CISA, and CRISC. When he’s not geeking out, he’s helping others build self-reliance, critical thinking, and firearms proficiency through real-world content.
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