Learn how to fully disassemble the Sig Sauer P220, P225, P228, P229, and M11A1 frames.
Covers both standard grips and E2 grips.
Step-by-step breakdown of all major parts like the trigger, hammer, and takedown lever.
Uses clear, hands-on guidance so you can follow without needing visual cues.
[Tools Used Guide – Coming Soon!] will list all the tools needed for the job.
Disassembling a Sig Sauer pistol frame might feel like a big task, but once you break it down, it’s easier than it looks. In this guide, we’ll walk step-by-step through taking apart the Sig Sauer P220, P225, P228, P229, and M11A1 frames. These pistols share a lot of design features, so once you’ve done one, the others feel familiar.
Start by picking up the pistol and pressing the magazine release button, located just behind the trigger guard. You’ll feel the magazine drop free from the frame. Set the magazine aside.
Pull the slide all the way back and push up on the slide catch lever with your thumb. You should hear and feel the slide lock open. Reach into the open ejection port and run your finger into the chamber. Make sure there’s no round sitting there. Feel for smooth, empty metal. Always double-check by touch, not just sight.
Once you’re confident the pistol is clear, you’re ready to move on.
With the slide locked back, find the takedown lever on the left side of the frame. It feels like a small, flat paddle. Rotate it straight down. It should move with firm, steady pressure.
Now, while supporting the slide with your hand, release the slide catch lever. Let the slide move forward slowly under control. As it moves forward, guide it off the front of the frame. You’ll feel the frame rails disengage and the slide come free. Set the slide aside—we’re working on the frame only from here.
Run your fingers along the grip. If you feel two small screws on each side, you have standard grips. If the surface feels smooth without any screws and wraps all the way around, you have E2 grips. Knowing which you have matters because the removal method is different.
If your Sig has standard grips, grab a screwdriver that fits the screws snugly. Turn each screw counter-clockwise until it’s free. You’ll feel the panel loosen as the last threads come out. Lift the grip panel away from the frame carefully and set it aside. Repeat for the other side.
Keep the screws and panels together. They’re small and easy to lose.
Removing E2 grips takes a few extra steps. First, locate the mainspring seat retainer at the bottom of the grip. It holds the grip tight against the frame. Remove the retainer. Once it’s out, gently spread the lower part of the grip apart with your fingers. You’ll feel the grip loosen its hold on the frame. Work your way upward and lift the E2 grip off completely. It might feel snug, but slow steady pressure will get it done without breaking anything.
Now, you need to get the takedown lever out of the frame. Find it on the left side where it sits flush against the frame. Push inward from the right side while applying a slight rotation. The lever should start to move. As it starts to come loose, pull it free from the frame. Set it aside carefully.
After the takedown lever is removed, the locking insert is next. Reach into the frame where the takedown lever used to sit. Feel for the base of the locking insert. Gently lift it straight up. If it feels stuck, you can nudge it with a non-marring tool. The locking insert will come free without much force once started.
With the locking insert out of the way, you can now remove the slide catch lever. Find the lever on the left side of the frame and pull it outward. It should slide free without much resistance. Set it aside with your other parts.
Moving deeper inside the frame, locate the hammer stop and the hammer reset spring. The hammer stop feels like a small blocky piece behind the trigger assembly. The hammer reset spring is a thin wire spring connected to it.
Use a pair of small pliers to grab the hammer stop and gently pull it upward. As it lifts out, the hammer reset spring will come free as well. Be careful—these pieces are small and easy to lose.
Find the trigger bar spring, which hooks between the trigger bar and the frame. You’ll feel it as a small, stiff wire. Using a pick or a small flat screwdriver, gently unhook the spring. Once free, lift it away from the frame carefully.
Avoid bending it—the spring must keep its shape to work correctly when you reassemble the frame.
If your model has a manual safety, you’ll find the safety lever inside the frame, above the trigger group. It feels like a thin paddle with a pin running through it.
Grip the safety lever and gently wiggle it while pulling upward. It should slide free from the frame. If your gun doesn’t have a safety, you can skip this step.
Now it’s time to remove the trigger and trigger bar.
Slide the trigger bar forward slightly, then tilt the whole trigger assembly up and out of the frame. As you lift, the trigger bar will slide out along with it. Move slowly and feel for any resistance—there shouldn’t be much if everything is aligned right.
The sear is tucked near the hammer at the rear of the frame. It feels like a small flat lever under slight spring tension.
Lift the sear gently upward while supporting the small sear spring underneath it. Once free, set both parts aside carefully. The spring is tiny and easy to lose, so use a parts tray or magnetic dish.
Depending on your Sig’s age, you may have an old-style or new-style hammer strut.
If it’s the old-style, you’ll feel a long hammer strut and separate seat. Pull the strut assembly free, then disassemble the spring and retainer carefully.
If it’s the newer style, the hammer strut assembly lifts out as one piece without needing to take it apart further.
Either way, the hammer strut should come out cleanly once the sear is removed.
Once the strut is out, the hammer is next. Grip it firmly and lift it upward out of the frame. If the hammer pivot pin stays in the frame, that’s fine—you don’t need to remove it unless necessary.
Find the decocking lever inside the frame, near where the hammer sat. Rotate it backward slightly while lifting upward. You’ll feel it come loose and slide free. The spring tension here is light but steady, so be patient.
Finally, to remove the magazine catch, push the magazine release button in halfway. Feel underneath for the small catch retainer. Use a small punch to rotate and release it. Once released, the magazine catch slides out from the side of the frame.
Take care here—this piece has small parts that like to launch if you’re not paying attention.
It’s not hard if you go slow and follow the steps. Some parts are under spring tension, but with patience, it’s something most people can do at home.
You’ll need a good set of screwdrivers, punches, and a small pair of pliers. A non-marring tool also helps with tight parts. We have a full tools list coming soon.
If you feel screws on the sides of the grip, you have standard grips. If there are no screws and the grip wraps around the whole frame, you have E2 grips.
Yes, this is a great time to upgrade things like the trigger, hammer, or grips. Just make sure the parts match your model exactly.
Stay calm and look around carefully. Small springs can jump, so working over a parts tray helps. If you lose one, you can order replacements easily.
Disassembling a Sig Sauer frame takes patience, but it isn’t hard once you know the sequence. Feel your way through each part. Move slowly. Pay attention to how each piece fits together.
When you’re done, keep all your parts organized so reassembly goes smoothly. And if you want to see what tools we recommend for this process, check out our [Tools Used Guide – Coming Soon!].
Time |
Topic |
---|---|
0:00 |
Intro |
1:01 |
Checking for an unloaded firearm |
2:10 |
Removing the Slide from the Frame |
3:01 |
Identifying Grip Types |
3:33 |
Removing Screw in Grip Panels |
4:34 |
Removing E2 Grips |
5:59 |
Removing the Takedown Lever |
7:17 |
Removing the Locking Insert |
8:10 |
Removing the Slide Catch Lever |
9:15 |
|
10:59 |
Removing the Trigger Bar Spring |
11:55 |
Removing the Safety Lever |
12:41 |
Removing the Trigger and Trigger Bar |
13:43 |
Removing the Sear and Sear Spring |
15:43 |
Removing the Old Style Hammer Strut Assembly |
16:33 |
Disassembly of the Old Style Hammer Strut Assembly |
19:22 |
Removing the New Style Hammer Strut Assembly |
19:54 |
Removing the Hammer |
20:34 |
Removing the Decocking Lever |
21:40 |
Removing the Magazine Catch |
Stay safe, stay sharp, and keep learning.
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Credit: Jason Schaller
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About the Author: Jason Schaller is a former FFL holder and founder of Eagle Eye Shooters Supply in Helena, MT, where he provided professional gunsmithing services and guided customers on all aspects of firearms ownership. Today, he teaches DIY gunsmithing at The Rogue Banshee and serves as a Chief Instructor at Freedom Crew University. With over a decade of hands-on professional experience with firearms and nearly 30 years in IT, Jason also holds top cybersecurity certifications including CISSP, CISA, and CRISC. When he’s not geeking out, he’s helping others build self-reliance, critical thinking, and firearms proficiency through real-world content.
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