I’ve stared at revolvers in the safe and wondered whether the rust under the grip is cosmetic or a warning. You’ve probably done the same. That hesitation is what deferred maintenance feels like before you even touch a wrench. The Dan Wesson Model 15-2 in this video came from a Montana estate sale-the same sale that produced the Glock 29 deep cleaning video a few months back-and it arrived with the kind of deferred maintenance that comes from hard backcountry carry. Every screw fought back. The sideplate was stuck from old oil and carbon, the crane had carbon buildup, and the cylinder needed lead removal. There’s something humbling about cleaning a gun that probably out-hunted you; this revolver likely saw more elk than I have. If you’ve got a medium-frame wheelgun that’s been sitting long enough to grow its own ecosystem, this is the walkthrough I wish I’d had before I started.
Quick Answer
What follows covers complete disassembly and deep cleaning of a Dan Wesson Model 15-2 revolver. The Model 15-2 uses a different internal layout than the large-frame Dan Wesson 44-it’s a medium-frame design with a fixed barrel and different sideplate and hand geometry. This walkthrough is for someone who’s already field-stripped a revolver and isn’t afraid of small parts on a white towel. If any screw won’t turn, stop and soak it before you strip the head. Call a gunsmith if the frame threads are damaged or you’re unsure about any wear.
What You’ll Need
I won’t pretend you can do this with a single screwdriver and hope. The Fix-It Sticks Glock and AR kits supplied most of the bits and punches, and the sizes matter on the Model 15-2: 0.050 Allen for the front sight, 5/32 for the grip screw, and various brass punches for the internal pins. You’ll want an Otis cleaning cable with brushes and patches-the patches can be reused up to 6 times by shifting them to a fresh hole on the rod. Wear safety glasses; compressed springs on this revolver will launch if you let them. For lubrication and soaking, I used Eezox Gun Care. A small parts tray is non-negotiable; every screw and spring on this revolver is small enough to vanish into carpet. Work over a towel.
Step-by-Step
Before touching a screw, open the cylinder and verify every chamber is empty-look, then feel with a finger. Remove all ammo from the bench. The first thing I do on any estate gun is look down the bore. This one showed lead fouling, but no cracks or pitting that would make it a wall hanger. That’s your go/no-go checkpoint. While you have the bore light in, check the forcing cone for heavy leading or erosion-either one means this barrel needs more than just cleaning. If the bore is structural, stop. If it’s just dirty, run an Otis brush through 10 to 15 passes, then patch until they come out grey instead of black.
Pre-Flight Checks
Remove the grips first. The 5/32 grip screw on the Model 15-2 is straightforward-unscrew it and the grip panels slide off the frame. The grip screw on this one had moderate rust on the head from backcountry moisture, but it broke free without drama. Set the grips aside on a clean towel; the wood or checkered panels can scratch if they slide across metal parts.
Grip and Sideplate Removal
The sideplate is where the Model 15-2 starts to differ from a Smith u0026amp; Wesson. Remove the three sideplate screws with a properly fitting screwdriver-two at the rear and one forward screw. The sideplate on this revolver was stuck from old oil and carbon buildup. I tapped it lightly around the edges with a plastic tool to break the seal. Don’t pry with metal-if the sideplate is stuck, tapping works better than leverage. Once the sideplate lifts off, you’ll see the hand, trigger return spring, and hammer mechanism.
Internal Component Removal
Before removing any internal components, release the mainspring tension. This is critical for safety. The mainspring on the Model 15-2 is under significant pressure and will launch components if not controlled. I used the mainspring tensioning tool method shown in the video to slowly release tension. Wear eye protection-the mainspring is strong enough to send small parts across the room.
Cylinder and Crane Disassembly
The hand comes off next. The hand is the component that advances the cylinder during trigger pull-it sits on a post and is retained by spring pressure. I carefully removed the hand spring, then lifted the hand off its post. The hand has a specific facing; if you install it backwards, the cylinder won’t advance. Take a photo before removal so you have a reference for reassembly.
Deep Cleaning
The trigger return spring is under tension and must be released before trigger removal. I compressed the spring carefully and removed the retaining component. This spring is small but stout-wear safety glasses. Once the spring tension is released, the trigger lifts out of the frame. Note how the trigger interfaces with the connector; the connector is what links the trigger to the hammer mechanism.
Reassembly
The connector and hand spring come out as a set. Place them immediately in your parts tray-don’t let them roll off the bench. The connector is a small bar that transfers trigger motion to the hammer. If it’s bent or worn, the trigger pull will be inconsistent. Inspect it for wear while you have it out.
The hammer is retained by a pin. I drove out the hammer pin using a brass punch and small hammer while holding the trigger back. Support the frame on a bench block. Once the pin is removed, the hammer lifts out. The hammer strut and mainspring come with it. Inspect the hammer face for wear and the strut for bends. Reassembly requires controlling the trigger position while seating the hammer or the geometry won’t line up.
The cylinder and crane assembly come out next. Pull the crane forward and lift the cylinder assembly out of the frame. On the Model 15-2, the crane and cylinder can be further disassembled for thorough cleaning. Remove the crane screw and separate the crane from the cylinder. This gives access to the extractor components and the cylinder ratchet. The extractor rod is left-hand threaded on some models-turn it clockwise to loosen. Turn it the wrong way and you risk snapping the rod.
The bolt is a small rectangular component that engages the cylinder notches. Remove the bolt and its spring. Note the orientation-the bolt face has a specific angle that mates with the cylinder notches. The cylinder alignment ball is next: it’s a small detent ball that ensures cylinder locks up properly. Remove it carefully with tweezers or a magnetic tool; it can roll away easily.
The firing pin and mainspring complete the disassembly. Remove the firing pin and spring from the recoil plate. Inspect the firing pin tip for damage or erosion-a worn firing pin causes light primer strikes. Remove the mainspring from the frame and inspect it for kinks, cracks, or compression set. A weak mainspring is the most common cause of ignition problems after a deep cleaning reassembly.
Degreasing comes next. I placed all metal parts in an ultrasonic cleaner with a firearms-specific degreasing solution for 10 to 15 minutes. The ultrasonic action removes carbon from recesses that brushing cannot reach. If you don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner, soak the parts in degreaser and scrub with a nylon brush. Dry every hole and channel immediately-trapped solution will rust overnight. After drying, I protected everything with Aegis Gun Care.
Barrel lead removal is where patience pays off. Lead buildup in the barrel affects accuracy. I used a brass bore brush soaked in lead remover solvent and ran 20 to 30 passes through the barrel. Let the solvent sit for 5 minutes, then follow with a nylon brush. Check the bore with a bore light-lead appears as grey streaks. Keep brushing until patches come out clean. The .357 Magnum chambers had carbon rings at the mouths; I used a chamber brush to remove them. Carbon rings prevent cartridges from seating fully, which causes extraction issues and inconsistent ignition.
Rust treatment: inspect all components for corrosion. Light surface rust comes off with 0000 steel wool and oil. For heavier rust, use a rust remover formulated for firearms. Do not use abrasive compounds on internal surfaces-they alter tolerances and can change how the action feels. The Model 15-2 has tight tolerances; preserving them matters for trigger pull consistency.
Reassembly follows the reverse order. Frame internals first: alignment ball, firing pin, mainspring. Then the bolt and trigger group, hammer, hand and hand spring, cylinder and crane assembly. When installing the hand, make sure it faces correctly-the hand must advance the cylinder when the trigger is pulled and retract when released. Install the sideplate and snug the screws evenly. Don’t overtighten; the sideplate screws on a Model 15-2 are small and can strip if you’re heavy-handed.
Final cleaning means brushing the bore 10 to 15 times, running wet patches until they come out clean, one wet lubricant patch through the bore, and a microfiber wipe on the exterior. After this level of disassembly, you’ll want to function check before loading. Dry fire in both single-action and double-action to verify hammer fall, trigger reset, and cylinder rotation.
What to Watch For
The Model 15-2 sideplate can be stubborn from old oil and carbon. If it won’t lift after removing screws, tap around the perimeter with a plastic or brass tool-don’t pry with a screwdriver. The hand spring is small and easy to lose; work over a towel or parts tray. Tightening the grip screw too far binds the mainspring against the frame; too loose and the grip shifts under recoil. There’s no sweet spot you can feel with a torque wrench-you have to dry fire while you tighten and feel for binding. Also, every screw on this revolver is small enough to vanish into carpet. Work over a towel.
FAQ
Below are the questions I get asked most often about deep cleaning a Dan Wesson Model 15-2 revolver.
When to Do This
I won’t claim this is the only way. I can only tell you what worked on a revolver that had seen harsh Montana backcountry carry and deferred maintenance. If you’re comfortable with small springs, pin punches, and thread geometry, this project leaves you with a gun you actually trust. This isn’t for someone who has never field-stripped a revolver. If the frame threads are damaged, or you don’t own a set of brass punches yet, send it to a gunsmith. Some damage requires a trained eye, not a can of Eezox and optimism.
What to Buy
– Fix-It Sticks kits and punches: trb.fyi/fis
– Otis rods, brushes, patches: trb.fyi/otis
– Aegis Gun Care: trb.fyi/aegis
