WEBVTT

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This Glock 29 came from an estate sale and it's gross. Who knows what we're gonna find? Rust?

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Grind? Maybe a little bit of regret? I don't know but we're gonna find out together. So let's get

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this Glock 29 on the bench, do a deep cleaning and find out what I got myself into. A lot of the tools

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I'll be using for this deep cleaning are coming from the field tool kit for Glock from my friends

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over at Fix-It Sticks. First thing I'm going to do is make sure this gun is unloaded and safe to be

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We'll need to field strip this Glock, and if you haven't worked on Glocks before, I'll

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walk you through the process.

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You'll grab the gun in an underhand method just like this, and then squeeze until the

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barrel unlocks.

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You'll then pull down on both sides of the slide lock.

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That'll let the slide settle forward.

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Then you'll squeeze the trigger and remove the slide.

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Now that we got the slide off, we're starting to see what I got myself into.

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This gun was obviously used heavy and put away really dirty.

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We're going to finish the field strip and see exactly how bad this pistol is.

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We're going to start by removing the recoil spring by pushing on the back.

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When it compresses the spring, we'll pull up a little bit and then remove the recoil

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spring assembly.

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Pushing on this spring gave a lot more tension than I was expecting and this is obviously

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not a Glock part.

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looks like it's a Wolf Springs Guide Rod Spring Set. We're going to continue by

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removing the barrel from the slide. I'm simply going to push in on the top and

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pull out through the bottom. Now that we have the slide field stripped, let's turn

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our attention to the barrel. It's obviously dirty on the outside and

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putting a bore scope in says that we really need to start cleaning this

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barrel. Fortunately this just looks like fouling and dirt and there is no rust.

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Even the chamber is really nasty on this barrel. We'll pull the barrel aside for

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cleaning. Since this is a non-captive spring I'm going to pull it apart and see

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if there's any rust or wear that I need to address. Looks like there's a little

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bit of surface rust on one of the springs. We'll clean it up and see how

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bad it really is. One of the things I like about Fix-It sticks is how modular

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the tools are. I'm going to play with this hook here, do the next steps, that way my

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hands are out of the way.

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It's obvious that we need to do a deep cleaning on this gun just from looking

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at the barrel. So we're going to take the slide apart and we're going to start with

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the rear slide cap. We'll need to pull the spacer sleeve forward in order to

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get the rear cap off. Normally you'd use a punch for this but I'm going to use

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the hook to keep my hands out of the way of the camera. Push down on the spacer

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sleeve and then slide the cap out. Usually these caps come out a lot easier

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but this gun is so dirty that it's almost glued in place. Once you get the cap to start moving,

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you can pull your punch out. Then cover the rear of the slide with your hand and then push the cap

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out. Now slide the firing pin assembly out through the rear.

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We'll now pull the extractor plunger assembly out through the rear.

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Since this gun is really dirty we're going to disassemble the firing pin that way we can make

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sure everything is clean and properly maintained. We're going to use the rear of the slide as our

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bench block and we're going to put the firing pin in backwards with the tail slightly off to the side.

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From here we're going to compress the spring. Then we're going to remove the plastic cap

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off the top of the spring. As you can see this cap is actually in two pieces.

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From here we're going to slowly release the spring tension.

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And then pull the spring off. The spring is in really good shape both inside and outside.

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Now we can remove the firing pin from the back of the slide.

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and remove the spacer sleeve from the firing pin.

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The parts are a little dirty but not too extreme. Now let's work on our extractor

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depressor assembly. We're going to grab the plunger in the

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spring and twist the plunger counterclockwise while pulling out.

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Now we'll pull out the spring-loaded bearing by doing essentially the same

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process. The parts are dirty but fortunately there's no rust. It looks

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like there's a lot of dirt trapped in the extractor slot. We'll need to pull

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and clean to keep this gun running smoothly. To remove the extractor we'll

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need to push in on the firing pin safety. Usually we can just push in on the

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safety and rotate the slide and the extractor will fall free. Unfortunately

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this gun is so dirty that it didn't do that. So I needed to push in on the

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safety and pull the extractor from the slide.

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As you can see there's a lot of dirt on the extractor and in the slot. Now we can

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remove the safety by pulling it from the bottom of the slide. Just like the

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extractor there's so much dirt that I needed to pull this manually from the

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slide. Usually they just drop free on their own. Twist counterclockwise to

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remove the safety from the spring. Upon inspection we just have some dirt and no

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rust. So since this gun has been mistreated so much I am gonna pull the

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channel liner. Usually you don't have to do this but fortunately Fix-It Stix has

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a channel liner tool. We're going to insert the channel liner tool into the

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back of the slide then push and twist so that way we can lock into the channel

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liner. Then we're going to pull hard to remove the channel liner. This channel

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liner is not reusable and will need to be discarded. Now since this gun has been

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mistreated we're going to remove the sights to make sure there's no rust

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underneath them. These early third generation Glock's had a front sight

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that was wedged in place. We're simply going to use a punch and drive it out. There's a little

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bit of wear but fortunately no rust. Now just like the channel liner, this front sight gets pitched

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too. I'll simply use a sight pusher to remove the rear sight and inspect the dovetail. The previous

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owner did some filing on the rear sight. Not sure why but I can keep it and reuse it. Fortunately

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the dovetail looks really good with no rust on it at all. This thing is so dirty I could be scrubbing

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this for hours. So instead I'm going to cheat and I'm going to use my ultrasonic cleaner.

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I like to use a shot glass for soaking small parts. I'll scoop up some warm solution in my

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ultrasonic cleaner, put my parts in, and drop it right into the ultrasonic cleaner which will keep

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the small parts warm while the ultrasonic cleaner is doing its job on the larger parts. I'll then

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drop in my other parts and let the ultrasonic cleaner do its thing. Once I'm done I'll take

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the parts out, dry them off and I'll do a final wiping, especially on this slide. The slide is

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still coming out dirty so I'll run it through the ultrasonic cleaner for another run. Meanwhile,

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I'll continue with the small parts and all the other parts while the slide is going through for

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another 30 minutes. All the parts are coming up really clean but we still need to work on this

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barrel a little bit later. Our second 30 minutes on the slide seems to have done the trick and it's

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coming up pretty clean. We'll clean up the slide and all the parts with some Aegis Gun Care to make

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sure that we got all the cleaning solution off of the parts and the slide because we don't want any

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problems later. We're then going to wipe down all the parts with some Aegis Gun Care lubricant

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to make sure they're preserved and ready for use. Our first step is install a brand new channel

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liner into the slide. We're going to use the channel liner install tool that came with our

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Fix-It Sticks kit. Simply put the channel liner onto the tool and we'll slide everything into

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the rear of the slide. Once everything's lined up, keep on pushing until the channel liner

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completely disappears into the slide. Now we're going to gather all of our parts to put our

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firing pin back together. We're going to start with the sleeve and the firing pin.

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They simply slide together. We're going to use the back of our slide as our bench block again.

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Just make sure the tail of the firing pin is off to the side. Now we're going to gather our spring

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and install it onto our firing pin. It doesn't matter which side goes on first.

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Now we're going to compress the spring and we'll install our slide caps with the small side going

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down into the spring. You want to make sure that the end of the spring does not end up into the

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joint of the two caps. Compress the spring and then install the two caps into the top of the spring.

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As you can see you might fumble with this a little bit but eventually you'll get them into

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the top of the spring and then release the pressure. You'll see that the ledge on the firing

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pin holds the spring caps in place. Once you're done installing the spring caps you can pull the

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firing pin out of the back of the slide. Now we're going to put together our extractor plunger,

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spring and loaded bearing. It's not going to matter which side of the spring that we put

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the loaded bearing or the plunger onto. Simply push the plunger into place until it snaps.

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the plunger has an end with a nub on it that's going to go inside the spring.

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Install it onto the spring and give it a slight clockwise twist.

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Now we're going to install our spring into our firing pin safety.

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The spring is going to install into this hole on the one side of the safety.

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It's not going to matter which side of the spring goes in first.

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You're going to install it and then give it a slight twist clockwise.

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Might take you a few times to get it right.

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and know it's right when you turn the assembly upside down and the spring stays in place.

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Now we're going to install a brand new front sight onto the slide.

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The white tail of the front sight is going to go into this hole in the front of the slide.

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Then we'll use our front sight tool and our fix-it sticks kit to install the screw.

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Pop the front sight into the slide, then flip the slide over, then install the screw until it's

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snug. Be careful not to over tighten or else you'll strip the front sight.

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Now we can install the rear sight into the dovetail. Slide the rear sight into the dovetail

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and finish installing using the sight pusher.

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Now it's time to put our upper parts into the slide. We're going to start on the underside

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of the slide and install our safety. Install the safety spring first into the hole in the slide.

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Now we'll install the extractor. Push in on the safety and install the extractor. Release the

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safety and the extractor is now installed. We're going to install the extractor plunger into the

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small hole in the back of the slide. Install the metal tip into the hole and then push it

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into place. Plastic bearing should be sticking out just like this. Now grab your firing pin

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and install it into the large hole in the back of the slide.

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Now we're ready to install the slide cap into the rear.

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The slide cap installs into these grooves on the back of the slide.

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Put the slide cap into the grooves and hold it in place with your thumb.

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Now use a punch and push in on the rear of the firing pin and slide up a little farther.

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Now use your punch and push in on the spring-loaded bearing and continue installing the slide cap.

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Now that we got everything else from the slide cleaned up, let's work on the barrel.

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The ultrasonic cleaner did a good job, but we still need to work on the inside of this barrel.

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I'm going to use the cleaning rod that came with my Fix-It 6 kit.

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It goes together super easy and it does a great job of cleaning the inside of a barrel.

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This gun care does a great job of cleaning up the fouling inside the barrel as well as

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protecting it for the future.

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I'll use the Aegis lubricant to protect the inside of the barrel as well as lubricate

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the slide.

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Now with this barrel all cleaned up, let's lubricate the slide.

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Let's lubricate the slide and get it put back together.

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We just need to drop down the rails and just wipe them clean to make sure there's not too

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much lube.

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Now we just insert the muzzle end of the barrel into the slide and then drop the backside

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into place.

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Now we'll put the open end of the Wolf recoil spring assembly into the front of the slide

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while the back side goes into this half moon cut into the barrel.

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Since I already lubricated the springs and the guide rods, it's just time to put the

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springs onto the guide rods and then put the guide rods together.

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Since the Wolf guide rod and spring isn't captive, it's a little weird to put it in

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at first, but you just push right past it.

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Now the spring is going to fight you a little bit here, but just push into it and then drop

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the back side into the little half moon cut in the front of the lug.

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Now that we got this slide back together, it's time to work on that lower.

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This lower is pretty nasty, so we're definitely going to be using that ultrasonic cleaner.

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We've got a couple of pins in the front that we're going to need to take out, and we'll

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use the larger 3/32" punch to do this with.

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We're going to completely remove the top pin out of the frame.

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Now we're going to remove the bottom pin, but this one is just a little bit trickier,

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because it holds both the trigger

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and the slide stop in place.

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First thing we're gonna do is pick up on the slide stop.

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Then we're gonna put our punch in place

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and then push our slide stop towards the trigger

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while punching out the pin.

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Now we just pull the slide stop out from the rear.

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Now we're gonna remove the locking block.

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Using your 3/32 inch punch,

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put it under the right-hand side of the locking block

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with the handle on the left hand side of the frame and then pry it up.

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Now this pistol was installed with a slider lock trigger on it so you can't pull it out

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without disassembling it.

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We'll need to use our 1/16th inch punch to drive out the top pin on the trigger.

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We can now use our 3/32nd inch punch to remove the final pin.

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Now we can pull up on the ejector to remove the trigger assembly.

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After we've pulled the assembly out, we can then remove the trigger shoe.

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It's now time to disassemble the trigger.

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Going to grab the housing with one hand and the trigger bar with the other and you're

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going to rotate counterclockwise until the cruciform exits the slot.

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Then you're going to rotate up.

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We're now going to take the trigger bar off the spring.

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Spring's going to fight you a little bit, but just keep turning and you'll eventually

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get it out of the slot.

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Now it's time to remove the spring.

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I like to use a 3/32" punch and put it in the spring so that way it helps me rotate

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the spring over without creasing it.

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Now that the spring is to the rear, we can pull it from the trigger housing.

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Now we can remove our disconnector by using our 3/32" punch and pushing it from the opposite

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side.

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We can now turn our attention to the slide lock.

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Now on these older gen 3 frames, we have a tab for a spring.

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Using your 1/16 inch punch, compress the spring and then remove the slide lock.

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We're now going to use our 1/16 inch punch to pry the spring up from the rear.

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Now it's time to work on the mag release.

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There's a spring that we'll need to slide over to a notch in the mag release.

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your 3/32" punch, move the spring over to the notch and then pry it out.

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Now pull your mag release out through the right hand side of the frame.

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Using some needle nose pliers, we'll pull the spring straight up and out of the frame.

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Just like cleaning the upper, I'm going to put my small parts into a shot glass and everything

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else goes directly into the tank. After everything's clean we'll...

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After everything's done in the ultrasonic cleaner we'll dry it off.

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And I'll use some air to dry off the areas that I just can't reach.

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I'll use some Aegis Gun Care Cleaner to make sure there's no residue

00:16:57.820 --> 00:16:59.540
leftover from the ultrasonic cleaner.

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Then I'll give all my metal parts a good coating of Aegis Gun Care Lubricant.

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Now that we got the parts all cleaned and lubed, it's time to get this back

00:17:14.079 --> 00:17:16.579
together. Our first step in the reassembly process

00:17:16.680 --> 00:17:18.920
is to install the mag release into the frame.

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Simply slide the mag release into the frame from the right hand side.

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We can now install the spring into the slot just below the mag release.

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Using a pair of needle nose pliers, start the install of the spring.

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I'll then use the front sight tool to make sure that it's fully seated into that hole and ready for install into the mag release.

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Our next step is to move the top of the spring into this groove in the mag release.

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I'm now going to use the hook to install the spring into the slot in the mag release.

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Now it's time to start the reinstall process of the trigger.

00:18:09.450 --> 00:18:15.240
We'll need the trigger mechanism housing, the connector, the trigger spring, and the

00:18:15.300 --> 00:18:15.920
trigger bar.

00:18:16.440 --> 00:18:18.900
We'll install the leg of the connector into the housing.

00:18:21.180 --> 00:18:24.580
pushing to make sure that the connector is fully seated into the housing.

00:18:26.720 --> 00:18:30.440
Now we'll need the trigger spring and it will connect into this hole in the back

00:18:30.480 --> 00:18:31.040
of the housing.

00:18:41.799 --> 00:18:45.620
We'll now connect the hole in the back of our trigger bar to the other side of

00:18:45.660 --> 00:18:46.100
the spring.

00:18:51.760 --> 00:18:54.560
We'll then rotate everything down into the housing.

00:18:56.980 --> 00:19:00.880
We'll then rotate the tab on the other side of the cruciform into the slot in the housing.

00:19:04.280 --> 00:19:08.100
We won't fully rotate it into place until after this next step.

00:19:08.280 --> 00:19:11.560
We'll then put a drop of Aegis Gun Care Lubricant onto the connector.

00:19:12.280 --> 00:19:16.160
Then rotate our trigger bar down onto the connector and then work the lubricant into

00:19:16.340 --> 00:19:16.660
place.

00:19:18.300 --> 00:19:20.240
Now we're going to install the housing into the frame.

00:19:20.570 --> 00:19:24.240
You may have to squeeze the trigger bar and connector to get it to fit into the frame.

00:19:24.680 --> 00:19:28.220
For this next step, we're going to need the slide lock spring and the slide lock.

00:19:28.720 --> 00:19:32.700
When we install the slide lock, we've got to make sure that the groove faces the rear

00:19:32.720 --> 00:19:33.220
of the gun.

00:19:33.580 --> 00:19:37.220
We're going to install the spring into this slot, just forward of the trigger.

00:19:38.020 --> 00:19:40.820
The tab of the spring will go into the slot in the frame.

00:19:45.440 --> 00:19:47.800
Next we'll install the slide lock into the frame.

00:19:48.300 --> 00:19:51.340
Just make sure the groove is facing to the rear of the frame.

00:19:51.680 --> 00:19:56.400
We'll use our 3/32" punch to compress the spring and then install the slide lock.

00:19:59.500 --> 00:20:01.640
We'll install the locking block next.

00:20:02.260 --> 00:20:04.560
It'll go into this slot just above the trigger.

00:20:05.460 --> 00:20:09.860
slide the locking block until it bottoms out and the two holes in the side should align.

00:20:14.140 --> 00:20:18.760
Now we're going to install the slider lock trigger. Now this may seem like an exercise

00:20:18.860 --> 00:20:24.520
in futility but eventually you will get it into place. As we're sliding the trigger up

00:20:24.640 --> 00:20:28.040
into the frame we need to get the trigger bar to go into the slot in the trigger.

00:20:36.740 --> 00:20:42.640
We'll then partially install the trigger pin. We don't want the trigger pin all

00:20:42.720 --> 00:20:47.780
the way installed because we still have to install the slide stop. The idea here

00:20:47.860 --> 00:20:53.980
is to have it installed just enough that the trigger will rotate on it. We'll now

00:20:53.920 --> 00:20:59.420
Now align the hole in the trigger bar to the hole in the trigger and then use a 1/16 inch

00:20:59.580 --> 00:21:01.160
punch to hold everything together.

00:21:01.460 --> 00:21:04.560
We can now install the pin that holds the trigger onto the trigger bar.

00:21:05.160 --> 00:21:08.740
I'll now use the front sight tool to start the install of this pin.

00:21:12.860 --> 00:21:16.880
I'll then use the rear of my hex drive extension to finish installing the pin.

00:21:18.780 --> 00:21:21.860
We can now install the rear pin into the back of the frame.

00:21:22.820 --> 00:21:24.780
This is the only plastic pin in the gun.

00:21:26.100 --> 00:21:30.280
The pin is fully installed when it is even to both the left and right hand side of the

00:21:30.420 --> 00:21:30.640
grip.

00:21:33.260 --> 00:21:38.260
We're now going to install our locking block pin which is the smaller which goes into the

00:21:38.260 --> 00:21:39.620
hole above our trigger pin.

00:21:40.320 --> 00:21:43.380
Simply push it in until it is even on both the left and the right.

00:21:47.300 --> 00:21:49.460
Now we can install our slide stop.

00:21:49.840 --> 00:21:54.940
We will install on the left hand side and the end will go into this slot on the left

00:21:54.940 --> 00:21:55.960
hand side of the trigger.

00:21:56.440 --> 00:22:00.380
Simply slide it into the frame and then align the holes.

00:22:01.900 --> 00:22:06.060
Once the holes are aligned, continue pushing the trigger pin all the way through until

00:22:06.120 --> 00:22:07.240
it locks into place.

00:22:11.680 --> 00:22:15.140
Now we can test the slider lock trigger to make sure it works correctly.

00:22:16.260 --> 00:22:20.160
Then place a drop of Aegis Gun Care Lubricant onto each one of the slide rails.

00:22:21.280 --> 00:22:25.300
A few triggers in the rear position, pull it forward and then install the slide.

00:22:29.100 --> 00:22:32.120
We'll rack the slide a few times to make sure the lubricant is spread out.

00:22:32.440 --> 00:22:36.580
With that frame being as dirty as it is, just imagine what the mags look like.

00:22:37.360 --> 00:22:41.160
Now on the surface these mags are looking a little rough too, so let's clean them and

00:22:41.260 --> 00:22:42.420
make sure they're ready to go.

00:22:42.740 --> 00:22:47.400
I used a mag plate removal tool from my Fix-It Sticks tool kit to pull off the base plate.

00:22:47.740 --> 00:22:50.960
Now you need to be careful to make sure that the spring inside doesn't shoot out of the

00:22:51.040 --> 00:22:51.380
mag.

00:22:53.160 --> 00:22:55.340
The mag is more dusty than it is dirty.

00:22:55.920 --> 00:22:59.340
We'll pull out the spring and check it and the follower for any damage.

00:23:00.080 --> 00:23:01.420
It looks surprisingly good.

00:23:02.240 --> 00:23:05.200
But the inside of the mag body definitely needs a wipe down.

00:23:05.860 --> 00:23:06.920
So does the floor plate.

00:23:07.300 --> 00:23:09.980
And the outside of the mag body could use some attention too.

00:23:10.700 --> 00:23:15.040
But hey, there's no rust on the spring and the follower is in great condition.

00:23:15.560 --> 00:23:19.400
There's no need to put these into the ultrasonic cleaner, so I'm just going to spray them down

00:23:19.520 --> 00:23:22.120
with some Aegis Gun Care Cleaner and wipe them out.

00:23:23.780 --> 00:23:28.320
I'll then wipe down my spring and the inside of my mag body with some Aegis lubricant.

00:23:28.860 --> 00:23:30.880
Make sure you don't over lubricate.

00:23:30.910 --> 00:23:35.280
We just want to make sure that the metal surfaces are preserved and rust free.

00:23:35.980 --> 00:23:38.680
Now with everything cleaned up, it's time to put the mag back together.

00:23:39.260 --> 00:23:41.660
We'll install the spring follower end first.

00:23:43.200 --> 00:23:47.760
We'll then place our magazine insert at the end of the spring with the button end facing

00:23:47.980 --> 00:23:48.180
out.

00:23:49.380 --> 00:23:51.960
And then install our floor plate onto the magazine.

00:23:53.100 --> 00:23:57.220
You'll get the plate on about halfway until you hit the lock and then you'll take a little

00:23:57.300 --> 00:23:59.520
bit of extra effort to push it all the way home.

00:24:00.100 --> 00:24:03.920
With an empty mag, we're going to put it in the gun and make sure that the slide locks

00:24:04.040 --> 00:24:04.400
back.

00:24:09.360 --> 00:24:12.140
Now that we've got this frame back together, it's time to take it to the range.

00:24:24.140 --> 00:24:26.000
That's how a clean Glock should run.

00:24:26.840 --> 00:24:28.660
Smooth, reliable, and ready.

00:24:29.140 --> 00:24:33.300
You just watched me take this Glock 29 from carbon cake to carry ready.

00:24:33.950 --> 00:24:38.380
Whether it's your EDC or your backcountry backup, maintenance matters.

00:24:38.940 --> 00:24:42.580
Because when it's go time, you don't get a second chance to wish you had cleaned it.

00:24:42.920 --> 00:24:43.540
Carry it dirty?

00:24:44.050 --> 00:24:47.280
You're not just trusting your training, you're trusting your luck.

00:24:47.760 --> 00:24:49.380
And that's a bad trade.

00:24:49.740 --> 00:24:55.040
If this helped you out, drop a comment down below and let me know what gun you want to

00:24:55.120 --> 00:24:56.680
see deep cleaned next.

00:24:56.680 --> 00:24:59.100
If I've got it, I'll do it.

00:24:59.440 --> 00:25:01.980
And if you've been putting it off, you know better.

00:25:02.180 --> 00:25:04.560
If you're watching on YouTube, click that video right there.

00:25:04.880 --> 00:25:08.900
That video is about how to deep clean a Glock 43.

00:25:09.560 --> 00:25:12.540
For everyone else, there's a link down below.

00:25:13.120 --> 00:25:16.940
Train smart, build confidence, and reclaim your capability.

00:25:17.840 --> 00:25:18.880
Welcome to the Rogue Nation.

