Sig Classic Sight Adjustment
The Sig Sauer Classic Pistols are equipped with drift adjustable fixed Sights that consist of a rear sight and a front sight blade. This post describes the basics of the sights and how they affect the impact on the target.
This article specifically talks about the Sig Classic (P220, P226, P229, etc.). If you are looking for an article about the Sig P365, make sure you check out our Sig P365 sight adjustment article.
Below are the procedures to do a Sig Classic Sight Adjustment:
Sig Classic Sight Adjustment – Zeroing the Pistol
Attempting to Zero the pistol should only be attempted after the shooter has become familiar with handling the pistol and comfortable with firing it.
Zeroing the Sig Classic Pistol should be done with a target placed at 25 yards and the pistol fired from a rested position in single-action mode. Sig Sauer recommends that the sighting of the pistol should be Point-of-Aim should be the Point-of-Impact (the sight should cover the hole that the bullet makes in the target).
Sig Classic Sight Adjustment – Windage (left/right)
To change the windage of the pistol you will move the rear sight to the left or right in its dovetail in the slide. you always move the rear sight in the direction that you want the group to move. If you are shooting to the left you want the group to move right so you move the rear sight right.
Sig Classic Sight Adjustment – Elevation (up/down)
There are 30 different elevation combinations available. Sig Sauer Sights are numbered according to their height. The higher the numbers the higher the grouping goes. If you are shooting low you will use higher numbers to raise the group. This is true for both the front and rear sight numbers. However, all sight adjustments should be made to the rear Sight first.
At 25 yards each rear sight change will move the bullets approximately 2″ and each front sight change approximately 1″
Below is a table of the Sig Sauer Sight numbers and their corresponding height.
Front Sight Rear Sight Number Height Number Height 05 6.01 mm / .235" 05 5.52 mm / .22" 06 5.88 mm / .230" 06 5.80 mm / .23" 07 5.74 mm / .225" 07 6.07 mm / .24" 08 5.60 mm / .220 08 6.35 mm / .25" 09 5.46 mm / .215" 09 6.62 mm / .26"
When changing sight you can use a pencil to mark the location of the original location of the sights in the dovetail. This will allow you to place the new sight into the dovetail and align it with the old sight location.
Sights can be removed from either side of the slide. However, they should be installed from the left side of the slide (as viewed by the shooter). Anytime sights are moved or changed the pistol must be zeroed.
If sights are too tight to fit into the slide, always remove material from the sight and not from the slide.
There are two methods of sight removal (using a Sight Pusher or the hammer and punch method). Each has their own advantages and disadvantages.
I have learned the hard way about the inexpensive pushers that you can get on eBay. After marking up a few slides… the cost of a Cerakote job to fix the marks left behind was getting expensive (even though I do Cerakote work).
I recommend using a quality pusher that is designed for the model of pistol that you are working with. They can be bought for about $100.
If you are going to do a lot of sight work I recommend the MGW Sight Pro. I have been using this pusher for over a year now and absolutely love it. However, the price of that pusher is beyond the casual user.
Starting price for the MGW Sight Pro is around $350 and the cost to convert it for each type of slide is another $20 (or more depending on the make and model of the pistol you are working on).To remove sights with a pusher, follow the instructions that came with your pusher but keep the movements limited to 1/32″ to 1/16″ at a time. And remember to install from the left side on the Sig Classic Series of pistols.
Hammer and Punch
If I have scared you off of the sight pusher route, and you still want to do it yourself, then there is the hammer and punch method. Just make sure you use a plastic hammer and either a wooden dowel, brass or Delrin punch to keep the marking of the sights (and potentially the slide) to a minimum. Using the hammer and punch method does increase the risk of damaging the slide and/or night sights to the point that they do not glow anymore.
Place the pistol in a padded gun vise and use a plastic hammer and lightly tap the sight toward your preferred direction. Movements should be limited to 1/32″ to 1/16″ at a time. Be careful to not clamp the vice so hard that it bends your slide.
Regardless of what method you used to move the sights, you will need to test-fire the pistol to see where (or if) your rounds are landing on target. Move sights again if needed.
Considering that it typically costs about $25 for a gunsmith to change out your sights (depending on where you live) you may just want to reconsider doing it yourself. $25 is pretty cheap insurance from messing up a slide or night sights.
There are many reasons to change sights and if done correctly can rewarding in both marksmanship and satisfaction of doing it yourself.
How to Support Us
If you like the work that we do here at The Rogue Banshee, please consider supporting us for free by clicking on our affiliate links before purchasing gear, parts and tools or donating to us on Patreon. Your support allows us to continue to produce the quality content that you expect from us.
Don’t forget to spread the word on your favorite Social Media platform by clicking the sharing buttons below.